YIO Remote assembly guide
With the help of this document, you will be able to build the YIO from the provided Kit. Also check out the assembly videos:
YIO Dock assembly and YIO Remote assmebly.
Please note that this is a preliminary guide and some details of the assembly might be different in the final kit. This guide will be updated when the kits begin to ship out.
The YIO Remote kit
The Kit will consist of the following parts:
- CNC milled, bead blasted and black anodized housing for the remote and the dock
- 3D printed (SLS) back cover and charging port insert for the remote
- 3D printed (SLS) part for the dock to hold the remote
- Acrylic parts for the remote and dock
- LED diffuser acrylic for the dock
- Custom made rubber silicone buttons
- 480x800px high resolution LCD display
- PCBs for the remote and dock
- Haptic motor
- Pogo pins for the charging port
- Magnets (for remote and dock)
- M2.5 screws
- Wires
Following additional parts and tools are required for assembly:
- Glue T-7000 (black version)
- Hot glue
- Soldering Iron / solder
- Polyimid tape
- Tweezers
- Screwdriver (PH1)
- Raspberry Pi Zero W
- Micro SD card. Class 10 recommended, with minimum 2GB capacity.
- 2500mAh 3.7V LiPo battery that fits in the housing (47x61x7mm).
- USB-C cable
- Charger capable of 3A @ 5V
YIO Dock assembly
To assemble the YIO Dock you will need the following parts:
- Dock housing
- Acrylic dock top
- LED transparent diffusor
- Two magnets
- 3D printed remote holder
- YIO dock PCB
Tools required:
- T-7000 glue (black)
- Hot glue (only to fix the PCB)
YIO Dock parts shown from both sides
Step 1
Put the dock housing with the large cutout facing away from you.
Add a thing layer of T-7000 glue to the housing marked yellow on the image to the left.
Step 2
- Insert the 3D printed holder in the dock housing as shown on the image.
ATTENTION:
Make sure the curved edges are facing the big cutout. If not, the PCB and the housing will not fit.
- Add a thin layer of T-7000 glue to the housing where it is marked yellow as shown on the right.
Step 3
- Remove the protective foil from one side of the acrylic dock cover and place it on the dock housing.
ATTENTION:
Make sure the curved edges of the acrylic top aligns with the 3D printed insert. If not, the remote will not fit into the dock.
TIP:
For best results, apply slight pressure to the top (e.g. put a book on top) for 3 to 6 minutes. Wait 3 hours for the glue to dry or 48 hours to fully cure.
Step 4
- Flip the dock housing upside down. Take the PCB and insert it into the housing.
ATTENTION:
Make sure the PCB sits flush and all three pogo pins are went through the 3D printed insert.
Step 5
The image on the left shows how the dock should look.
- Apply T-7000 glue to the two yellow marked holes and insert a magnet in each.
TIP:
Mark one side of each magnet prior to inserting with a permanent marker, so you know the polarities.
Step 6
- Apply B-7000 glue to the LED diffusor and glue it in place, on top of the LED.
- Apply hot glue around the edge of the PCB and the housing to keep it in place.
Congratulations!
You have assembled the YIO Dock.
YIO Remote assembly
To assemble the YIO Remote you will need the following parts:
- Remote housing
- Remote 3D printed back cover
- Display
- YIO Remote PCB
- Buttons
- Acrylic button cover
- Proximity sensor PCB
- Haptic motor
- Screws
- Charging pin holder
- Magnets
- Pogo pins
- Wires
Tools required:
- T-7000 glue (black)
- Soldering iron
- Tweezers
- Polymide tape
- Screwdriver (PH1)
- Raspberry Pi Zero W
- LiPo battery
- Micro SD card (minimum 2GB, class 10)
Parts and tools for the YIO Remote assembly
Step 1
- Insert the pogo pins to the charging connector part as shown on the picture.
ATTENTION:
Make sure the flat surface of the pogo pins sit flush with the outside of the 3D printed part to ensure correct alignment.
Step 2
- Apply T-7000 glue to the charging insert it on the marked spots(above) and insert into the housing. Make sure the "bump" on the charging insert is facing towards you.
- Fill the magnet holding holes with T-7000 glue and place the magnets in place.
ATTENTION:
Make sure the magnets are facing in the correct polarity. Check with the dock before glueing them in.
Step 3
- Apply T-7000 glue on the marked places
- Take the protective foil off the acrylic part and put it in place
ATTENTION:
For best results, apply slight pressure around the acrylic cover and wait 3 to 6 minutes for the glue to dry. It is recommended that you wait 3 hours for the glue to completely dry.
Step 4
- Place the display in the housing. Make sure not to break the ribbon cables while doing so
- Secure the display in place with some tape
- Flip the remote over, but make sure you have a soft cloth underneath so you won't scratch the display
- Take it slow and push glue around the display, so it fills up the gap between the housing and the display. Be careful not to push the glue too hard, so it won't come out on the other side
ATTENTION:
For best results, apply slight pressure for 3 to 6 minutes. Wait 3 hours for the glue to dry or 48 hours to fully cure. Make sure you don't press too hard on the display!
Step 5
- Remove the micro HDMI and micro USB ports from the Raspberry Pi
ATTENTION:
As we won't be using these ports anymore, the easiest way we found is to use a flush cutter and gently cut these ports off.
Step 6
- Cover the back of the Raspberry Pi with some Polymide tape to make sure there will be no shorts
- Align the Raspberry Pi on the PCB as shown here and use some tape to hold it in place
- Solder all the GPIO pins to the PCB
- Put insulating tape on the back side of the PCB as well to cover the soldered pins.
TIP:
You can use GPIO header pins to solder the boards together, but you have to make sure that the boards sit tightly close together and you cut away all the excess pins. The pins should not be higher than the SD card slot.
Step 7
- Place the small proximity sensor PCB in the cutout on the housing. Make sure that the INT pin is on the left side.
- Place the buttons in the housing
Step 8
We believe this step is the most difficult one, but with steady hands, tweezers and patience it can be done quickly.
- Remove the plastic covers from the pogo pins
- Make sure the white ribbon connector (marked yellow) is in the open state: the black tab is perpendicular to the body.
- Now the tricky part: flip over the PCB and align it on top of the display. The pogo pins on the PCB should align with the pads on the proximity sensor PCB.
- Gently lift up the PCB so you can see in between the display and the PCB. Using the tweezers, insert the small ribbon cable into the white connector, then use the tweezers to push the black tab on the white connector down to lock it in place.
ATTENTION:
Be very gentle when working with the ribbon cable. It's fragile and easy to break. The cable only need to go approx. 1-1,5 mm deep into the connector.
Step 9
- Secure the PCB with the M2.5 screws
- Insert the display ribbon cable into the connector
ATTENTION:
Do not overtighten the scews. It can ruin the threads and the PCB will be loose. Fingertight is good.
Step 10
- Solder the 3 wires to the pogo pins on the bottom as shown on the image. These wires will connect the pogo pins to the PCB. Use the thicker wires for 5V and GND and the thin wire for the signal (CHARGING markings on the PCB)
- Use some hot glue to secure the pogo pins and wires from the inside, but leave enough space for the battery
- Solder the battery wires to BAT+ and BAT-. Make the wires as short as possible and arrange them to fit nice and slug and won't block the petruding parts of the back plate
- Stick the haptic motor in the cutout on the top, to the backside of the display.
- Solder the haptic motor wires to M+ and M- on the YIO Remote PCB.
ATTENTION:
Be careful when soldering the battery wires. Do not apply to much heat for too long!
Double check the polarity of the battery and charging cables before connecting them.
Congratulations!
You have assembled your YIO Remote and Dock. Download, flash and insert the microSD card into the Remote, pop the back plate on and start developing/using the remote!
